@3dprinting It will go outside the enclosure on the back side, as shown here.

@3dprinting Here's the power supply mount I came up with. The upper bracket slides up, and the power supply can be removed without tools. That way I can take the printer to the bench without a lot of hassle.

The AMP MATE-N-LOK connector is rated for 70 amps! The power supply is rated for 10.

@3dprinting I adjusted a few dimensions, and the second try fits nicely. There's just barely room enough (I hope) to bend the wires around and connect them into the jack.

This is the same receptacle Prusa uses for their enclosure's optional quick release. So if I ever move my printer into one of those, it will be ready to plug in. https://www.prusa3d.com/en/product/psu-cable-quick-release-for-original-prusa-enclosure-mk4/

@3dprinting It took the entire day, like 12 hours, just to model this power supply cover. It doesn't look that hard, but it took a long time to collapse the infinite possibilities down to this one. It's on the printer now; I'll see if it fits in an hour.

@3dprinting I plan to put the printer's power supply outside the enclosure attached to one table leg. The bottom of the power supply will fit into a cradle, and a cap will slide down over the top of the PS to keep it stable. To remove, I'll just slide the top up and lift the PS out.

@3dprinting I am still working on the printer enclosure when I'm not traveling. Today I made a test piece that slides along an IKEA LACK leg. I put steel dowel pins on two sides for a tight but low-friction fit. It works better than expected.

@3dprinting ??? This was supposed to be a video. It looks like I just uploaded a still.

@3dprinting I've solved the problem of mounting LEDs to the underside of the LACK table in my printer enclosure. I'm very happy with the result.

@3dprinting Here's the new prop arm and the tool that squeezed it together. The pieces aligned pretty straight but not perfect.

Note that the two halves of the arm were printed in different orientations. I had to print the left half with support.

@3dprinting This joint locks two PETG pieces together far better than it has any right to. I had to force the pieces together with Knipexes.

I'm printing the prop arm (previous toot) in two interlocking pieces. Prusa's design used a very loose mortise and tenon with Superglue.

@3dprinting Now that we know where the solid parts are inside the table, we see that most of the screws in Prusa's enclosure design are screwed into air. Hmmm...

(Source: https://blog.prusa3d.com/mmu2s-printer-enclosure_30215/ )

@3dprinting The hinges have bar magnets to hold them closed. That's from Prusa's design, but I moved them to give them about 60% more mechanical advantage and increase the closing force. They feel very satisfying to operate, but I won't know for sure until the doors are attached.

@3dprinting Here's the other end of the LED channel. It's open on the bottom for wires. I can drill a hole through the table anywhere that is hidden by the square plate and doesn't interfere with the screw holes. I think I'm using JST SM connectors, so the hole needs to be that big.

This is by far the most complex mechanical assembly I've ever designed.

@3dprinting The orange post on top is not a separate piece. I did a layer height color change.

@3dprinting The purple piece is the end cap for the LED channel. It press fits into place. The wires will feed into the channel from the other end. This will probably be one of the trickier bits to assemble when sliding this down onto all four legs at once.

The filament is Prusament Ultramarine Transparent PETG. The other colors are Prusament Prusa Orange and Prusament Matte Black. The ultramarine is outside the gamut of most LCD screens.